Chan Kee Roast Goose: A Pilgrimage to Sham Tseng Village

The Village That Smells Like Roast Goose

The bus pulls off Castle Peak Road and the smell hits you before you see the village. Wood smoke, caramelised skin, rendered fat. This is Sham Tseng (深井), a small coastal village in the Tsuen Wan District where roast goose has been the main business since the 1950s. A giant goose statue greets visitors at the roundabout. The village gate reads 深井村. And the restaurant that started it all is still here: Chan Kee Roast Goose (深井陳記燒鵝).

Chan Kee is one of the oldest roast goose restaurants in Sham Tseng, operating since the 1950s. It was among the first to bring the Cantonese charcoal-roasted goose tradition to this quiet New Territories village, and it has been family-run across three generations. The restaurant owns its own goose farm and roasts every bird on-site using lychee wood charcoal. For decades, locals from across Hong Kong have made the trip out here for a Sunday lunch of goose, and the tradition shows no sign of slowing down.

What Makes Sham Tseng Goose Different

The name Sham Tseng literally means “deep well” (深井), and the roasting technique takes its name from the village. In the original method, a deep pit is dug into the ground and lined with lychee wood charcoal. Iron bars are placed across the top of the well, and the geese are suspended inside so that the heat circulates evenly around each bird. The charcoal smokes the goose rather than grilling it directly, which locks in the juices and gives the meat a subtle, sweet smokiness that is difficult to replicate in a conventional oven.

The result is a goose with skin that is glossy, amber-coloured, and crisp, while the meat underneath stays remarkably juicy. Unlike some roast goose restaurants in the city centre that prioritise an ultra-crispy skin, the Sham Tseng style leans into moisture and flavour. The fat layer beneath the skin is thin but rich, and the meat pulls apart easily. Each goose is marinated in a house blend of spices before roasting, and the exact recipe varies from family to family. Chan Kee has kept theirs unchanged for over 60 years.

What to Order

The roast goose is, obviously, the reason to come. You can order it in several ways: as a roast goose rice plate (a quarter goose on steamed rice with plum sauce, the quickest and most affordable option), as a half goose to share between two to three people, or as a whole goose for a larger group. The lunch set menus start at HK$338 for Set A (suitable for two) and go up to HK$1,280 for Set E (a full banquet spread for a table). The sets include goose plus a selection of stir-fried vegetables, soup, and rice.

Beyond the goose, several other dishes are worth ordering. The char siu (barbecue pork) is naturally sweet and well-charred. The salt and pepper squid is a reliable starter. The goose intestine in black bean sauce is a local favourite that rewards adventurous eaters, and the water spinach with garlic provides a clean, green contrast to the richness of the goose. We recommend ordering a daily herbal soup if one is available: the kitchen rotates its soup selection based on the season.

How to Get There

Sham Tseng is in the New Territories, roughly halfway between Tsuen Wan and Tuen Mun along Castle Peak Road. It is not directly on the MTR line, which is part of its charm and the reason the village has kept its character. From Tsuen Wan MTR Station, take green minibus route 96 from Chung On Street. The ride takes about 15 to 20 minutes. Alternatively, buses 52X, 53, 234A, and 234B all stop at Sham Tseng.

If you are coming by taxi, tell the driver 深井陳記燒鵝 (Sham Tseng Chan Kee Siu Ngo). The fare from Tsuen Wan MTR is around HK$40 to HK$50. The restaurant is on the ground floor of 63 Castle Peak Road, facing the main road. You will see the roast geese hanging in the window before you see the sign. Sham Tseng is also the endpoint of the Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail, a popular hiking route. If you enjoy combining food with a walk, Duen Kee in Chuen Lung Village is another excellent food destination in the Tsuen Wan area.

Why It Still Matters

Sham Tseng used to have a row of roast goose restaurants lining Castle Peak Road. Rising rents and changing habits have thinned the numbers, but Chan Kee has held on. The restaurant has also expanded, with branches in Mong Kok and Macau (at Studio City and City of Dreams), bringing the Sham Tseng name to a wider audience. But the original village branch remains the one to visit. The goose is roasted on-site, the portions are generous, and there is something about eating it in the village where the tradition began that no city branch can replicate.

For expats, a trip to Sham Tseng is a chance to see a side of Hong Kong that rarely appears in guidebooks. The village is quiet, the waterfront is nearby, and the pace is slower than anything you will find on Hong Kong Island. Pair it with a walk along the Tsuen Wan waterfront promenade or a hike on the Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail, and you have a full day out. Lunch for two, including a half goose, two side dishes, rice, and drinks, will come to around HK$350 to HK$500. For another Hong Kong roast goose experience closer to the city, Kamcentre in Causeway Bay is worth comparing.

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