Yuen Long Food Guide: 5 Stalls Worth the Queue

Yuen Long’s streets feel like a different Hong Kong entirely. Narrow lanes, weathered shop signs, and the kind of food stalls that have been feeding the same neighbourhood for decades. For anyone living on Hong Kong Island or in Kowloon, the New Territories can feel like a world away. But Yuen Long’s food scene rewards the journey with some of the most honest, affordable, and satisfying street food left in the city. While Kowloon’s hawker stalls have gradually given way to chain restaurants and shopping malls, Yuen Long’s old town has held on to a density of traditional snack shops that is increasingly rare anywhere in Hong Kong.

Here are five stalls scattered across the old town area that locals have been quietly lining up for, each worth the trip from the MTR station.

Wah Kee Cake Shop: Hand-Made Peanut Glutinous Rice Balls

Wah Kee (驊記糕點屋) has been a Yuen Long institution for years, drawing daily queues for its hand-wrapped glutinous rice balls (糯米糍). There is only one filling: crushed peanut mixed with coconut shreds and sugar. Each ball has an impossibly thin, chewy skin that stretches without tearing, and the peanut filling inside is coarse, fragrant, and lightly sweet. Everything is made to order by the owner and her husband, which means the queue moves slowly but the product is always fresh.

Beyond the rice balls, the shop sells traditional pastries that are harder to find elsewhere: bo zai gou (bowl cakes), savoury cha kwo, peanut candy, and dragon beard candy. At around HK$6 per glutinous rice ball, this is some of the best-value handmade food in the territory. Arrive early on weekends because the rice balls sell out by mid-afternoon.

Ah Yuk Tofu Pudding: The Ceramic Bowl Experience

Ah Yuk (亞玉豆腐花) serves traditional tofu pudding in ceramic bowls, not plastic, and locals insist the bowl makes a difference. The soy flavour is deep and clean, the texture is silky without being watery, and you pour your own brown sugar syrup from a small jug on the table. The result is one of the purest expressions of Hong Kong tofu pudding you will find anywhere in the city.

The handmade bowl cakes (缽仔糕) are equally beloved. They come in sets of five for around HK$100, and regulars buy 10 or 15 at a time to take home. The texture is dense, slightly chewy, and flavoured with red bean or brown sugar. If you eat only one thing in Yuen Long, long-time locals say make it the tofu pudding here.

Kau Hui Cheung Fun: The No-Nonsense Rice Noodle Roll Stall

Kau Hui Cheung Fun (舊墟腸粉) is famous for two things: its food and its rules. The rice noodle rolls are soft, slippery, and dressed in a mix of sweet sauce and sesame sauce that locals say you will not find replicated elsewhere. The combination of sweet and nutty coats the rolls without overwhelming the delicate rice flour flavour, and the texture is exactly right: smooth enough to slide off chopsticks if you are not careful.

Fish balls, siu mai, sausage, and radish cake are available as sides. A feast of 10 rolls plus three portions of toppings comes to around HK$51, which makes this one of the cheapest satisfying meals in Hong Kong. The ordering protocol is strict: state your order clearly and quickly. Do not hesitate, do not change your mind mid-sentence, and do not chat. The auntie running the stall is efficient and not interested in small talk. Locals treat this as part of the charm rather than a deterrent.

Wing Shun: The Satay Beef Noodle Specialist

Wing Shun (永順沙嗲牛肉專門店) is Yuen Long’s go-to for satay beef noodles. The satay sauce is thick, rich, and deeply flavourful, coating every strand of noodle with a peanut-spice paste that has enough depth to stand up to the beef. The noodles arrive piping hot, and the combination of tender beef slices with the fragrant sauce is the kind of comfort food that explains why this place has survived unchanged while flashier restaurants come and go.

The spare rib rice is also popular, with tender, well-marinated ribs over steamed rice in a clay pot. It is the kind of place that becomes a weekly habit rather than a one-off visit, and the regulars who fill the small dining room at breakfast time have been doing exactly that for years. Wing Shun opens at 6:30 am, making it one of the few stalls on this list where you can start a food crawl early in the morning.

Fei Jie Oyster Omelette

Yuen Long has a long history with oysters, and the area around Lau Fau Shan was once Hong Kong’s main oyster farming hub. Fei Jie (肥姐蠔餅) carries that tradition into the old town with a crispy oyster omelette that draws steady crowds. The oysters are fresh and plump, the egg batter is golden and crispy around the edges, and the whole thing arrives hot from the wok with a smoky char that only high heat can produce. No frills, no fancy plating. Just good oysters done the traditional way.

If you have room after the other stalls on this list, the oyster omelette makes a good finishing dish because the flavour is rich enough to feel like a proper meal on its own. Order one to share between two people and eat it immediately while the edges are still crisp.

Getting There

Take the MTR Tuen Ma Line to Yuen Long station and use Exit B1. The old town food stalls are clustered around On Ning Road, Fau Tsoi Street, and Kau Yuk Road, all within a 5 to 10 minute walk from the station. You can cover all five stalls on foot in a single afternoon. If you are combining the trip with other New Territories food adventures, Tsuen Wan’s rice noodle shops and Kwai Chung Plaza’s food stalls are on the same MTR line.

Read More on HK Expat Club

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