The Story Behind Faan Lau (蘩樓)
Faan Lau traces its roots to Guangzhou’s Xiguan (西關) district, the historic heartland of Cantonese culinary culture. The restaurant began as a modest tea house called Huang Ji Yi Zhong Liang Jian (黃記 一盅兩件), founded by a dim sum master surnamed Huang. His tea house earned a loyal following for one simple reason: the ingredients were impeccably fresh, and the portions were generous.
As the business grew, Master Huang acquired a three-storey building on Tongxing Street in Xiguan and renamed it Faan Lau (蘩樓). The name carries a poetic meaning. Fan (蘩) refers to a type of wild grass that thrives along the marshes and riverbanks of the Pearl River Delta, and these are precisely the waters where the freshest, plumpest shrimp are found. In classical Chinese, the character also symbolises vitality, prosperity, and abundance. It was a fitting name for a tea house built on the promise of the finest shrimp dumplings in Guangzhou.
The ground floor served neighbourhood regulars in the traditional yi zhong liang jian (一盅兩件) style, meaning one pot of tea and two baskets of dim sum. The upper floors hosted merchants and traders from across the region, making Faan Lau both a community gathering place and a commercial hub. Today, the brand has expanded well beyond Guangzhou, with over six branches across Shenzhen. For Hong Kong residents crossing the border for a weekend dim sum fix, it has become one of the most reliable choices in the city. If this is your first trip across the border, check our complete first-time China preparation guide for visa, payment, and app setup details.
What to Order: Signature Dim Sum
Faan Lau’s menu runs deep, but several dishes have earned a reputation that keeps regulars coming back. Prices listed below are based on the Jianning Plaza (Luohu) branch and may vary slightly between locations.
Faan Lau Asparagus Shrimp Dumplings (蘩樓露筍蝦餃皇) at around 32 to 36 RMB is the house signature and the dish that made the original tea house famous. Each dumpling contains two to three whole shrimp, wrapped in a translucent skin that is thin enough to see the filling. The asparagus tip adds a subtle crunch that balances the sweetness of the prawn.
Crispy Prawn Red Rice Rolls (香脆明蝦紅米腸) at 33 to 38 RMB are a modern twist on the classic cheung fun. The rolls have three distinct layers that deliver soft, crispy, and springy textures in a single bite. They come with three dipping sauces.
XO Sauce Steamed Chicken Feet (XO醬山椒蒸鳳爪) at 29 RMB are slow-braised until they practically melt. The XO sauce and mountain pepper give them a savoury kick that elevates the dish well beyond the standard dim sum version.
Four-Colour Rice Noodle Rolls (蘩樓四色腸粉皇) at 36 RMB showcase the kitchen’s range. Four different fillings are presented in a single steamer, offering variety without needing to order multiple dishes.
Other dishes worth trying include the honeycomb tripe in sauce (金錢肚), steamed beef balls with water chestnut, and the baked char siu bao. A typical dim sum session for two people runs between 160 and 200 RMB, making it a fraction of the cost of a comparable yum cha experience in Hong Kong.
The Experience: Traditional Cantonese Tea House Atmosphere
Walking into Faan Lau feels like stepping into a recreated Xiguan tea house. The interior design is one of the restaurant’s strongest draws. Oversized fish-shaped lanterns hang from the ceiling in gold and red, while the walls feature green and gold panels inspired by traditional Lingnan architecture. Stained glass windows, carved wooden screens, and marble-topped tables complete the look.
The restaurant’s branded teaware is a nice touch. Each table is set with a ceramic tea bowl and pitcher stamped with the Faan Lau logo and the characters for yi zhong liang jian. The tea is poured from a communal pot, keeping with the traditional Cantonese tea house ritual.
During peak hours, especially weekend mornings between 9:00 and 11:00, expect a wait. The restaurant uses a digital queue system through Dianping (大众点评). Search for 蘩楼 on the app, select your preferred branch, tap the queue button (取号), and choose your party size. The app will notify you when your table is ready, so there is no need to stand in line at the door.
How to Get There from Hong Kong
The Jianning Plaza branch is one of the most convenient dim sum spots for anyone crossing from Hong Kong. It sits on Level 4 of Jianning Plaza (佳宁娜广场), which is directly connected to the Luohu commercial area just steps from the border crossing.
From Hong Kong: Take the MTR East Rail Line to Lo Wu Station. After clearing Hong Kong immigration and crossing through Shenzhen’s Luohu Port (罗湖口岸), follow signs to Jianning Plaza. The walk from the checkpoint exit to the restaurant takes under five minutes.
For those based in Futian or preferring a different route, the Huaqiang North branch (华强北店) is another strong option. Take Metro Line 2 or Line 7 to Huaqiang North Station, use Exit C, and the restaurant is directly across from the escalator exit at 118 Zhenhua Road.
An eSIM for Mainland China is recommended for using Dianping and mobile payments once you cross the border. For a full guide on border crossings, see How to Get to Shenzhen from Hong Kong.
Practical Info: Hours, Prices, and Tips
Jianning Plaza Branch (Recommended for HK Visitors)
| Chinese Name | 蘩樓（佳宁娜广场店） |
| Address | 深圳市罗湖区人民南路2002号佳宁娜广场L4层 Jianning Plaza, Level 4, No. 2002 Renmin South Road, Luohu District, Shenzhen 📍 Amap (高德地图) |
| Nearest Metro | East Rail Line to Lo Wu, cross border, 5 min walk to Jianning Plaza L4 |
| Hours | 08:30 – 16:00, 17:00 – 21:00 (daily) |
| Price | ¥80-90 per person |
| Must-Order | Asparagus Shrimp Dumplings (露筍蝦餃皇), Crispy Prawn Red Rice Rolls (紅米腸), XO Chicken Feet (XO鳳爪) |
| Payment | WeChat Pay, Alipay, Cash (RMB) |
| Tip | Arrive before 11:00am for the early bird 8.8 discount (12% off the bill) |
Huaqiang North Branch (Alternative)
| Chinese Name | 蘩樓（华强北总店） |
| Address | 深圳市福田区振华路118号 No. 118 Zhenhua Road, Futian District, Shenzhen 📍 Amap (高德地图) |
| Nearest Metro | Line 2 or Line 7 to Huaqiang North (华强北), Exit C |
| Hours | 09:00 – 16:00, 17:00 – 21:30 (daily) |
| Price | ¥85-95 per person |
| Must-Order | Same signature menu across branches |
| Payment | WeChat Pay, Alipay, Cash (RMB) |
| Tip | Flagship branch with the most elaborate interior; use Dianping queue on weekends |
For more places to eat near the Luohu border crossing, see the full Where to Eat in Luohu guide.
Read More
- Where to Eat in Luohu: An Expat’s Guide to Shenzhen’s Best Food Just Across the Border
- How to Get to Shenzhen from Hong Kong
- Best eSIM for Mainland China and Hong Kong
